The bigger question though, would be why would you want to bother with inks.if you are going to take the thing that makes them different away? Thickening isn't a bad thing on its own - but it should not be the go to technique for using inks. Even airbrush specific inks are designed to dry fast - again, illustrators who are on the clock don't have time to watch the paint dry. Normally no drying retarder.that would be a mess trying to use a technical pen with an ink that takes a while to dry. Since most inks lack a real pigment particle - they have less gunk to clean up.however, the colorant used can stain things.so, that can be a bit more of a mess on your hands. No real special concerns with acrylic inks. Line pressure is regulated back at the main to drop it down below the high pressure reading of the low pressure gauges to avoid pegging the gauges.
HOBBY LOBBY INDIA INK MAC
I place static pressure gauges after the MAC valves off the manifold. This has allowed me to dial in past results with minimal effort to get the same outcome. In the end, I went with separate gauges and regulators so I wasn't tied to a specific "bundle". It isn't so much they are bad - it is just a function of the design. The Badger was better - but still, lacking in many respects. It was a bit frustrating when dealing with the high side regulators, as often a small enough turn of the knob to register pressure was enough to put me past the pressure that I wanted to use. My Badger regulator gives me +/- 3 PSI on a 60 PSI range - again, more accurate nearer the 75% mark. With my Iwata regulators, they are accurate +/- 5 PSI on a 100 PSI range - with the accuracy improving with pressure towards the 75% of the maximum range. An inline MAC valve helps that a good bit.though you loose the ability to know what your pressure actually is while spraying.īecause of the way I work, I really like (almost need) to have a high level of repeatability. Unless you are actually using calibrated gauges though, it can be hard to get an accurate reading at that low of pressure (especially if you are using an on the compressor diaphragm controlled regulator.). I actually start at around 5 PSI and go up from pending on which inks I am using, and what I am doing with them.
Anything special I need to do to clean the brush after inks or do they act like any other acrylic paint? Glad to see my idea on the psi and needle size were about right. We must have been typing at the same time. Sean_OBrien wrote: Dial the pressure way back.and with inks, it actually pays to have that 0.2 needle. They make special ink extenders that maintain the ultra low viscosity of inks if you are interested in getting more mileage from them. Many I use straight up - or with a bit of alcohol to dry faster.Īdding a regular airbrush thinner, will generally increase the viscosity of the inks - which isn't a bad thing, just a thing to keep in mind. In fact, I want them to dry a bit faster than my regular paints.otherwise, you can get into issues where it will bead up because of impatience in laying down the colors (especially with a translucent can take a bit before you even see a change in tone with some of those). They don't have any pigment particles in the regular sense of things that will create frictional losses in your brush that require higher pressures.Īlso, I normally won't use any sort of drying retarder with them at all. However, since they are so much more fluid than any paint right out of the bottle, you can very easily apply too much too fast and have issues with the air pressure blowing them around or laying down so much that it pools up on you.Įven if you thin regular paints down to the same consistency as inks - the inks still flow much better. Inks are what I use for fine detail - and provided that you don't run the pressure too high (like over 10 PSI) and aren't using a big needle (like over 0.25) than you can do very, very fine work with them. Dial the pressure way back.and with inks, it actually pays to have that 0.2 needle.
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